Konnichiwa from Fukuoka. I am currently on day 13 of a sweeping round-the-world tour, and you truly could not ask for a softer landing than Japan’s biggest southern city. It is a perfect autumn evening, hovering comfortably at 14 degrees Celsius, complete with a gentle breeze. Across the city, bars and bistros glow warmly with the amber light of pizza ovens and open grills, while subtle lighting frames diners along bustling boulevards and cosy side streets. Because it is Saturday evening here—and this dispatch needs to be filed in time to hit New Zealand in the coming hours—let us pick up precisely where we left off last Saturday and retrace the steps of this global itinerary.
A British Airways A350-1000, Heathrow to Austin
I have not flown with British Airways for nearly a decade, I reckon, and my recent long-haul flight across the Atlantic to Texas confirmed precisely why. While I am by no means a disinfecting hygiene freak, so much food and beverage had spilled and caked onto every surface surrounding my seat that I was forced to hunt down some disinfecting wipes at a local chemist, Matsumoto Kyoshi, just to give the entire area a thorough scrub before settling in.
The airline operates in a league of its own when it comes to cabin crew presentation and demeanor, possessing a distinct accent and attitude that is remarkably difficult to pinpoint: roughly 30 per cent camp, 10 per cent wannabe posh, 25 per cent daytime television, and rounded out with an erratic mix of huffs, dramatic eye rolls, and prolonged disappearances. From the flight deck, however, it is an entirely different story altogether: perfect vowels, clipped operational clarity, and smooth, reassuring updates. While British Airways has recently announced a broader corporate relaunch, a simple, old-fashioned deep clean of its aircraft cabins would unquestionably be a much better investment in the immediate term.
Austin: Part One
While I have traveled to Houston and Dallas on numerous occasions, my previous trip to Austin was only my second, and the first had left little to no impression. Last Saturday, however, that all changed dramatically. I checked into the exceptionally buzzy Proper Hotel, enjoyed a remarkably tasty dinner at Hestia, found myself unexpectedly invited to Elon Musk’s exclusive Halloween party, and ultimately returned to my room at the end of the night smelling vividly as though I had been personally chargrilled.
Austin: Part Two
I woke up early Sunday morning and decided to take a brisk little trot through town to clear my head. At 7:00 am, the temperature was already sitting at a pleasant 22 degrees Celsius as I made my way toward the river. Along the way, I passed a remarkably fit jogger pounding the pavement in shorts and no top. It was a man, I might add. A woman clad in Lululemon gear passed by on my left, and then, just around the bend, came yet another shirtless male runner. And then another, and another.
Had the temperature been a blistering 30 degrees Celsius, the attire—or lack thereof—would have made complete logistical sense. If every runner possessed a phenomenal, chiseled physique, it might have felt slightly more understandable. As it stood, it was neither. Nevertheless, topless trotting appears to be a deeply entrenched local custom in Texas’s state capital, and it is safe to say I chose not to follow the locals’ lead on that particular morning.
Austin: Part Third
While I am generally not a great enthusiast for hard-hat tours, I happily and immediately obliged when given the opportunity to tour Herzog & de Meuron’s striking new architectural project, dubbed Sixth & Blanco. Masterminded by hospitality and retail visionary Larry McGuire, the new development builds thoughtfully upon his existing Westside enclave up the street and his various surrounding culinary and retail ventures along Sixth.
Although the site is still a full nine months away from completion, it is already evident that it will be one of the most compelling mixed-use projects in North America when it finally throws open its doors. Featuring a small, intimate hotel, an array of independent cafés and restaurants, an exclusive private members’ club, and a cluster of premium residences perched on top, the complex is low-slung, heavily accented with natural wood and exposed concrete, and introduces an entirely fresh design language for American retail and hospitality. Even a week later, I find myself still thinking about how razor-sharp the final execution is going to be.
Austin: Part Four
I will freely admit it: I experienced a momentary flash of the classic “I could live here” sentiment after walking the expansive aisles of the Central Market grocery store. It is quite possibly the finest food retailer in North America and undoubtedly belongs in the global top five. While I thoroughly adored my Casa Santa Luzia experience in São Paulo just a few weeks prior, this Texan institution operates on a completely different level in terms of sheer scale, curation, and product offering.
There are additional branches scattered throughout other parts of the state, but the flagship location is truly worth a dedicated pilgrimage if you appreciate people who take fine grocery retail seriously. And while we are handing out heavy praise for Texan retail, both First Light Books and the independent magazine shop Tomo Mags are nothing short of world-class additions to the local cultural landscape.
Over the North Pacific
The Cathay Pacific flight from Dallas to Hong Kong is exceptionally long—clocking in at well over 16 hours in the air—yet I managed to sleep soundly for a full 12 hours of the journey without relying on any chemical sleep aids whatsoever.
Manila
Returning to Manila after a 13-year absence provided plenty of reflection on how much the city has evolved. It was an absolute treat to be back immersed in the lush, frantic energy of the Makati district. Among the highlights was a lively 30-minute appearance on the morning current affairs show Headstart, with veteran anchor Karen Davila steering the questions through a fast-paced interview.
It was equally magical for myself and my accompanying colleagues to be hosted by a dedicated Monocle patron within his stunning modernist compound. To cap it off, spending an evening mingling with our wonderfully fun, chic, and charming local subscribers was long overdue. Salamat, Manila; we will be back very soon, as there is still much to explore and accomplish here.
Hong Kong
The weather in Hong Kong felt rather too hot for early November standards, but the city itself was as ruthlessly efficient as ever on the corporate front. Staying at Carlyle & Co. adds an extra layer of attentive, thoughtful care to what is otherwise a brisk and demanding business trip. Furthermore, their signature fried Hong Kong beef-noodle dish serves as all the culinary fuel one needs to power through the late hours, keeping the momentum going as Europe wakes up and extends the global business day well past midnight.
Fukuoka
It is now time to wrap up these notes and head out into the Fukuoka evening for dinner. I am accompanied by two colleagues, and we are armed with a promising restaurant recommendation to get the night rolling, followed by a few planned drinks to round out the weekend. I will report back with more from the road next Sunday. Have a good week ahead.
