For Rose, the move marks a homecoming of sorts. The acclaimed British-Jamaican designer previously worked closely alongside Demna during his early years at Balenciaga, a decade-long era that fundamentally transformed the Kering-owned label. Rose is widely credited within the industry as a major foundational influence on the brand’s signature aesthetic during that pivotal period—specifically shaping its trademark oversized, distressed, and vintage-flecked men’s silhouettes that went on to dominate global streetwear and luxury runways alike.
According to Kering, Rose’s appointment inaugurates "a new chapter" in the ongoing evolution of the luxury house. The conglomerate stated that the designer "brings a deep understanding of the house’s creative identity to her own singular vision of contemporary culture." Rose will officially step into her new role on November 16, operating out of the brand’s headquarters in Paris.
The transition comes at a critical juncture for both the designer and the brand. For Rose, the prestigious Balenciaga posting provides a stabilizing and much-needed professional boost. Earlier this year, the designer was forced to press pause on her fall 2026 ready-to-wear collection as she attempted to untangle her independent namesake company from Tomorrow Ltd., a business partner whose majority stake was sold earlier this year to The Level Group.
Rose founded her eponymous label in 2007, gradually building it into a cult favorite known for its subversion of traditional menswear codes, laid-back urban cool, and gender-fluid tailoring. Over the years, her distinct design language has earned her a dedicated following among cultural heavyweights and celebrities, including Drake, Naomi Campbell, DJ Goldie, Kendrick Lamar, and Timothée Chalamet. Beyond her own label, Rose’s boundary-pushing approach has made her a sought-after collaborator for major global brands. She has spearheaded high-profile capsules and special projects with labels such as Supreme, Nike, Napapijri, and Tommy Hilfiger. In 2023, she made history as Clarks’ first-ever guest creative director and served as a guest menswear designer at Pitti Uomo the same year.
Despite her widespread critical acclaim and cultural resonance, running an independent label presented logistical hurdles. Her namesake brand is currently stocked by roughly 200 high-end retailers globally, including Dover Street Market, H Lorenzo, Nordstrom, The Webster, SKP in China, and Browns online. However, the administrative restructuring of her business unfortunately impacted her most recent output. Her fall 2026 collection never made it into commercial production—a disappointment for fashion critics who viewed the collection as a particularly vibrant and inventive statement.
That unproduced collection showcased Rose’s signature knack for unexpected pastiche, blending ’90s club culture with historical grandeur. It featured hot pink fur, dark denim, flocked trousers, corset-stitched jackets, and slinky lingerie elements fused seamlessly with structured dress shirts. Describing the aesthetic at the time, Rose noted that the collection was "decendent through our lens, a mix of ’90s clubwear and old-world opulence," adding that it was fundamentally "about dressing up and showing off." For inspiration, she had looked to a diverse pantheon of sartorial show-offs, ranging from historical figures like King Henry VIII to soul legend James Brown and British boxing icon Prince Naseem.
Now, that restless creative energy will be channeled into the machinery of a global luxury powerhouse. Expressing her enthusiasm for the new role, Rose noted that it is a profound privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, describing it as "a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit."
"Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me," Rose said. "I am committed to honoring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story."
Kering Chief Executive Officer Luca de Meo echoed this sentiment, characterizing Balenciaga as a "house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion." De Meo emphasized that Rose embodies that exact ethos through a perspective that is simultaneously fresh, fearless, and deeply contemporary.
"Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house," de Meo said. "Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity, and culture."
Gianfranco Gianangeli, president and chief executive officer of Balenciaga, also welcomed the incoming creative director, praising her distinct aesthetic perspective and design pedigree.
"Martine Rose is an extraordinary creative talent with a bold and highly distinctive vision," Gianangeli said. "她的 ability to challenge conventions, reinvent silhouettes, and bring an unexpected perspective to fashion resonates deeply with the spirit of innovation that defines Balenciaga. We are delighted to welcome her as creative director and look forward to this exciting new chapter for the house."
With Rose at the helm, the fashion industry will undoubtedly be watching closely to see how her underground sensibilities, subverted tailoring, and sharp commentary on modern masculinity and culture intersect with the high-octane luxury platform of Balenciaga. As she prepares to take over the Paris-based studios in November, the stage is set for a thoroughly modern reimagining of the brand’s storied codes.
