Lisbon
About three blocks from my apartment, a new district is on the rise and, my goodness, it is going up at a remarkable speed. It is difficult not to wonder whether the partial Chinese ownership of Fidelidade—the prominent insurance and financial group developing the district—might have something to do with the astonishing velocity with which foundations have been dug and towers erected across the site.
While the ongoing construction could certainly benefit from some Beijing-style perimeter security overnight to deter the local graffiti sprayers who frequently deface the protective hoardings, the Entrecampos development increasingly looks like a promising, transformative addition to Lisbon’s evolving cityscape, despite some vocal detractors. Any major urban development risks jarring with its immediate neighbors, and this scheme certainly possesses a substantial footprint. To visualize the scale, think of a scaled-down version of Tokyo Midtown inserted into the Portuguese capital.
Yet, beyond its sheer size, the project is successfully revitalizing a long-derelict site with solid, contemporary architecture, ample green spaces, and a comprehensive host of municipal and commercial services. In doing so, it is actively creating a vital satellite city centre for Lisbon. Perhaps the best news for local residents and food enthusiasts alike is that the master plan promises to house the top gourmet food hall in the entire city, bridging modern urban planning with Lisbon’s famed culinary culture.
London
On Monday, our team hosted one of our regular Minglers at Midori House in London. These in-house gatherings function simultaneously as a business update, a source of creative inspiration, and an extended aperitivo, bringing together staff from across Monocle and its sister agency, Winkreative, to get completely up to speed on what is happening across our global network.
We always make a point of inviting a dynamic, sparky speaker to address the team, and for this particular edition, Ruth Rogers of the legendary River Café pulled up a chair to share her insights. Rogers spoke expansively about everything from the foundational disciplines of being a sharp entrepreneur to the intricacies of building a successful podcast business, as well as knowing the crucial art of when to walk away from a deal.
Most importantly, however, she reminded the assembled crowd of media professionals about the fundamental power of hosting and getting the simple things right in business and hospitality. Five days on from her appearance, her visit has left me reflecting on what we might possibly do for an encore when late October rolls around.
Paris
It felt as though at least half of the Monocle team was booked onto one of the very early Eurostars out of London on Tuesday morning, leaving the station completely rammed with travelers. Every time I take the high-speed cross-channel service, I am inevitably left thinking about all the missed opportunities to significantly improve the passenger offer, ease chronic bottlenecks at the terminals, and deliver a travel experience that is simply better. I could easily go on at length about rail infrastructure, but I will save those detailed critiques for another column.
Meanwhile, upon arrival, the French capital was putting on a magnificent show under clear, sunny skies with temperatures hitting 29C. The streets were absolutely packed with international architects, decorators, journalists, and brand owners, all gathered in town for the annual rush of Paris Design Week. As the sun finally dipped below the horizon, we hosted an evening of cocktails for journalists and creatives at our cafe located on Rue Bachaumont. Paris felt utterly electric, looking and feeling entirely at its best. After a long summer break, it was an absolute delight to be back in the city.
San Francisco
On Wednesday afternoon, I landed in San Francisco just after midday. As the wheels of the aircraft kissed the tarmac—deserving a polite tip of the hat for a remarkably smooth landing by the Air France Boeing 777 captain—I immediately began bracing myself for the customary queues and bureaucratic chaos of United States immigration.
How entirely wrong my expectations turned out to be. I managed to make the journey from the aircraft door straight to the back seat of waiting transportation in a mere seven minutes. You can count them: seven minutes flat. Admittedly, it certainly helped that the immigration hall was relatively empty at that exact moment, though it was certainly not as though there was a shortage of arriving international flights.
Whether we have the current political administration to thank for this unexpected surge in operational efficiency, or whether San Francisco International Airport (SFO) simply stands as a shining example of a well-managed airport taking matters into its own hands to remain friendly and efficient, remains an open question. Either way, the swift passage was deeply appreciated.
Tokyo
The connecting flight from SFO to Haneda Airport (HND) aboard All Nippon Airways touched down at approximately 03:00. Arriving as I did on a Saturday morning, much of Tokyo was still wide awake, with crowds of residents and visitors alike moving seamlessly on to their next bar, lounge, or club.
It has undeniably taken a while following the disruptions of recent years, but Tokyo’s legendary nightlife finally felt as though it was well and truly back in full swing, even despite the fact that it was a long holiday weekend in Japan. Naturally, I was more than slightly tempted to have the car make a detour into Ginza to meet up with some of my regular POTN (people of the night) crew at a tiny local bar for a song or two.
Briefly, the temptation was strong. However, my more sensible side quickly got the better of me, whispering that attempting to visit five major cities across three continents in the span of just 96 hours was quite enough excitement for one single week. It reasoned that a proper, uninterrupted sleep in a real bed was by far the more prudent choice. I firmly believe I made the right decision in heading straight to rest, though I will forever wonder about the nocturnal delights I might have missed in the Neon-lit alleys. Thankfully, I already have another trip firmly marked on the calendar for October, when the weather turns that little bit cooler, the autumn leaves begin to change, and Tokyo’s celebrated retailers fully stock their new seasonal collections. I truly cannot wait.
