The global denim industry once again demonstrated its unwavering belief in the power of collaboration during last week’s edition of Kingpins Amsterdam. Serving as a crucial B2B trade show for the sector, the event successfully brought together a diverse ecosystem of denim mills, fiber manufacturers, advanced technology companies, and visionary designers. Together, they transformed out-of-the-box creative concepts into commercially ready products through an impressive array of capsule collections and boundary-pushing exhibits.
Among the major announcements on the trade show floor, Swiss specialty chemical manufacturer Archroma and Chinese textile mill Prosperity Textile inked a strategic agreement designed to jointly shape the future of denim innovation. The two companies will work hand-in-hand to develop, evaluate, and implement pioneering approaches aimed at elevating denim aesthetics, durability, and overall performance.
Stafford Lau, director at Prosperity Textile, emphasized how the company’s advanced smart factory infrastructure across China and Vietnam plays a pivotal role in this partnership. According to Lau, this setup allows them to develop and test fresh ideas rapidly while swiftly transitioning the most promising concepts into full-scale production.
Echoing this sentiment, Jordi Calucho, Archroma’s super systems denim director, noted that an innovation truly matters only once it successfully reaches the commercial market. Achieving this milestone requires a dedicated partner capable of helping to shape, test, and run the product at scale, a role that Prosperity Textile readily fills. Calucho added that the collaboration aims to provide denim brands and consumers alike with the desired aesthetic and lasting performance, all produced through more sustainable manufacturing methods.
Hyosung TNC served as the catalyst for several major collaborative projects showcased at the event. In one notable partnership, the elastane manufacturer teamed up with Turkish denim mill Maritaş to combine cotton grown through regenerative agricultural practices in Turkey with Hyosung’s RCS-certified recycled spandex, which is produced locally in its Turkish facility. This collection resonated strongly with European brands seeking to champion and strengthen a reliable regional supply chain.
Another notable collaboration paired Hyosung’s 100 percent recycled regen elastane fiber with Tencel Lyocell HV 100. Taiwanese denim mill Nien Hsing brought these materials to life, demonstrating how brands can successfully infuse denim with an authentic look and texture while maintaining the ease and comfort inherent to recycled stretch.
Furthermore, Hyosung joined forces with DNM Denim—both active members of the circular economy initiative known as the Denim Deal—to manufacture fabrics containing over 20 percent post-consumer recycled cotton alongside Hyosung’s regen BIO Max Elastane, which is derived from sugarcane.
This particular collection underscored Hyosung’s ongoing transition toward renewable raw materials. Commercial production of the company’s sugarcane-based regen BIO Spandex officially commenced in August, marking a significant industry milestone as the sector’s first operating integrated bio-based spandex production system. This streamlined system connects the entire manufacturing chain, beginning with sugarcane feedstock and progressing through Bio-BDO, Bio-PTMG, and finally finished spandex. The current facility boasts an annual production capacity of up to 50,000 tonnes, with strategic plans already in place to expand capacity up to 200,000 tonnes as market demand scales upward.
Lenzing also made waves at the event by partnering with world-renowned Japanese denim manufacturer Kaihara Corporation to debut the REMOD collection. This joint effort features three of Lenzing’s signature lyocell offerings tailored specifically for denim applications: standard Tencel, the linen-inspired Tencel dtex 2.2, and Tencel Lyocell HV 100. Spanning a versatile wardrobe of men’s heavyweight jackets, midweight wide-leg jeans, and shirting, Lenzing stated that the collection unlocks a wide spectrum of fiber-blending possibilities, including fabric constructions utilizing both cotton blends and pure cotton-free options.
Dennis Hui, Lenzing’s global business development manager for denim, expressed enthusiasm about renewing the partnership with Kaihara Corporation, noting that Tencel fibers have remained a staple of Kaihara’s collections since the 1990s, with each successive era demanding unique material characteristics. He emphasized that each Tencel variant delivers authentic denim character paired with elevated comfort and hand feel, expressing excitement for the inspiration the portfolio will provide to mills, brands, and designers alike.
Beyond commercial fabric innovations, several projects on display were curated purely to inspire and provoke creative thought among attendees.
Munich-based artist Isha Pimpalkhare’s installation, titled “Four Breaths of Blue,” welcomed visitors right at the entrance of Kingpins Amsterdam. The textile artwork visually captures the gradual deepening of indigo color achieved through repeated dipping processes and prolonged exposure to oxygen. Curated by the Indigo Art Museum with backing from Indian denim manufacturer Arvind, the installation featured a technique developed by Pimpalkhare during her textile design studies as a contemporary reinterpretation of Devore. The process utilizes acid to carefully burn away select areas of indigo-dyed cotton while a fine polyester mesh structurally supports the remaining delicate fragments.
In a separate artistic venture, Stella Blu partnered with artist Nouch to produce a limited run of 100 art pieces titled “Material Intent.” This collaboration plays heavily with the concept of social constructs, centering primarily around denim bags meticulously designed to mimic disposable plastic shopping bags, with each individual piece adorned with distinct animal illustrations.
Cone Denim celebrated its milestone 135th anniversary by exhibiting a curated selection of never-before-seen vintage garments chosen specifically for how they capture the personal history and daily life of their original wearers. Meanwhile, The London Showroom presented “Blue-Collar Modernism,” an immersive exploration of style originating from Fleet Street, which served as the historic heartbeat of British print and national journalism for nearly five centuries. The showcased pieces projected a notably cleaner workwear aesthetic compared to previous showroom presentations, which traditionally leaned heavily toward intricate repair techniques and heavily faded finishes.
Kingpins also introduced the third installment of its ongoing “Made in” exhibition series, this time casting a spotlight on China. Exhibitors were invited to present their unique visions regarding the future of denim manufacturing within the country. Vivian Wang, CEO of Kingpins, noted that the participating creators successfully blended tradition with cutting-edge technology, handwork with next-generation thinking, to paint a comprehensive and modern portrait of China’s current denim landscape. The “Made in China” exhibit was further enriched by the screening of the short film “Indigo Story: The Hands That Remember.”
Jeanologia collaborated with renowned denim consultant and Denim Forum founder Sue Barrett to introduce Common Ground, a utility-wear collection deeply inspired by the natural world. Barrett explained that the collection bridges the gap between rugged workwear and military-inspired silhouettes by integrating nature-derived patterns, advanced laser detailing, vintage finishes, and subtle references to historical archival pieces. The resulting garments achieve a harmonious balance of old and new, blending timeless appeal with a contemporary attitude.
The production of the collection heavily leveraged Jeanologia’s proprietary laser and G2 Ozone technologies. Lasers were deployed to carve out intricate patterns, contrast, and visual depth directly onto the garment surface, while ozone treatments manipulated color and aging effects to establish the final weathered aesthetic. Carme Santacruz, Jeanologia’s creative director, reflected on the creative journey, stating that for many, the process holds just as much meaning as the physical collection itself, prompting a deeper philosophical contemplation on balancing individual uniqueness with shared surroundings.
Rounding out the exhibition’s major showcases, Italian chemical manufacturer Officina39 introduced Renegade Renaissance, an inventive two-piece collection crafted from unconventional materials under the creative direction of Marta and Glenda Goldschmied, the founders of Gold Girl Co. The sisters, famous as the inventive minds behind Recycrom, acted as the technical engine and creative enablers for the project, translating their distinct artistic vision into tangible garments through advanced chemistry, textile expertise, and bold material experimentation.
The two-piece lineup featured Marble Dreams, a dramatically draped white gown inspired by classical sculpture that was dipped directly in marble dust by Officina39 to achieve its remarkably sturdy yet smooth structure. The second piece, Midnight Journey, drew thematic inspiration from scratch-off lottery cards, utilizing a specialized leather coating applied by Officina39 to secure the vintage effect envisioned by the designers.
Andrea Venier, managing director of Officina39, praised the strong creative vision brought to the table by Marta and Glenda, explaining that the company’s core mission was to translate that vision into a tangible material language. Concluding his thoughts, Venier noted that working with unconventional briefs involving marble dust, permanence, chance, and ambition pushes the boundaries of traditional chemical manufacturing, which is precisely why such challenging collaborations remain deeply compelling to the company.
