MILAN — Inspiration can often be found in the most unexpected corners of history and art, waiting for the right creative eye to translate it into a modern fashion vocabulary. For Ferragamo’s creative director Maximilian Davis, that spark of inspiration struck earlier this year while visiting the critically acclaimed Lee Miller exhibition at the Musée d’Art Moderne in Paris. Among the vast archives of the legendary photographer, model, and war correspondent, Davis found himself particularly captivated by her years spent living and working in Egypt. That deep dive into Miller’s mid-century desert existence directly cued up another remarkably strong Milan collection for the Florentine luxury house, heavily hinged on refined safari jackets, sun-baked earth tones, and a myriad of evocative desert references.
The resulting collection quickly seduced fashion critics, buyers, and industry insiders alike with its rich spice-rack color palette, body-skimming silhouettes, and a fascinating juxtaposition of textiles that felt at turns gossamer, beefy, and kinky. Davis thoughtfully elaborated on his material choices backstage, explaining that his translucent rubber trench coats, sleek tank dresses, and sharply tailored skirt suits served as direct references to nurses. Workwear and utilitarian uniforms historically adopted by women in the early decades of the 20th century have consistently remained a vital narrative thread throughout his tenure at the helm of Ferragamo, bridging the gap between practical history and high-fashion fantasy.
True to the house’s storied identity, the collection felt deeply and unmistakably Ferragamo. This was driven in large part by a preponderance of statement leather belts, positioned sharply on raised waists and occasionally even creeping up toward the bosoms to create an arresting architectural silhouette. Signature Gancini clasp closures added a touch of heritage luxury, prominently featuring on meaty leather jackets and vests that anchored the lighter, more fluid pieces. Footwear enthusiasts were treated to exciting new variations on the iconic F wedge—a revolutionary design first pioneered by founder Salvatore Ferragamo back in 1947—alongside a fresh, contemporary interpretation of the classic Vara pump, ensuring that the accessories narrative remained as compelling as the ready-to-wear.
Yet, in the hyper-observant world of international fashion, a strong runway presentation rarely exists in a vacuum. Beyond the immediate celebration of Davis’s craftsmanship, industry observers could not help but read the show through a different, more speculative lens: as a sly, brilliantly executed audition for Saint Laurent in Paris. Rumors have long circulated that the Parisian powerhouse might be mulling a creative change, even despite the largely acclaimed, decade-long tenure of Anthony Vaccarello. Against this backdrop of high-stakes industry gossip, Davis’s mastery of sleek tailoring, sensual draping, and elevated eveningwear offered a tantalizing glimpse of what he might achieve on an even larger global stage.
The stylistic parallels were difficult to ignore. The sleeveless safari shirts and pencil skirts, artfully and loosely laced at the sides, bore a distinct resemblance to the provocative, ultra-chic aesthetic of Tom Ford’s legendary era at the house Yves built. At the same time, however, Davis firmly anchored his historical exploration in the 1940s. This decade-specific focus was immediately felt in the opening look—a commanding, strong-shouldered coatdress that set a tone of austere elegance—and carried through in the precision of the high-waisted tailoring that defined the core of the lineup.
Throughout the presentation, Davis demonstrated a characteristic lightness of hand paired with an innate, sophisticated sense of fabric. He knows precisely how to create dramatic tension on the runway, whether through scarf-like drapes tossed tightly and nonchalantly over the shoulder, or via a generous swag of sheer silk that lapped sensuously at the models’ legs with every stride. His mastery of materials was further highlighted by sleeveless leather safari vests and impeccably cut pencil skirts that felt both timeless and sharply modern. Furthermore, the accompanying menswear collection held its own effortlessly against the womenswear, offering plenty of masculine swagger and understated chic to spare.
As the fashion calendar turns and the industry looks toward the future, this collection marks a significant milestone for the young designer. Having already passed his sixth anniversary at the historic Florentine house, Maximilian Davis has well and truly come into his own, cementing his reputation as one of the most compelling creative forces working in luxury fashion today.
