As the seasons shift and wardrobes pivot toward cooler weather, Monocle has released its definitive annual edit of seasonal essentials and the emerging labels worth watching. From sharp, meticulously crafted travel jackets and heritage shoemakers with an eye on the elements to high-fashion houses passing the torch, this year’s curation highlights a global landscape of thoughtful design, localized manufacturing, and enduring quality.
1. The travel jacket: William Frederick, USA
Designer William McNicol, who founded his brand William Frederick in 2018, continues to champion US manufacturing heritage. Operating out of Cleveland, New York, Detroit, and Long Island, the label crafts elevated workwear directly inspired by the classic silhouettes of the American heartland—ranging from baseball caps and ringer T-shirts to office-ready shirts. Among the seasonal standouts is the aptly named Airport jacket. Constructed from a lightweight cotton-and-linen blend, it features natural corozo buttons and a double-welt pocket deep enough to safely hold a passport, offering a functional design tailored for life on the move.
2. The rising independent: Suntosons, UK
Based in South London and open to visitors strictly by appointment, Suntosons is an independent retailer founded in 2025 that showcases emerging menswear brands alongside its own namesake label. Keita Hiraoka, a Japan-born, London-based designer with background experience at Beams Japan and Trunk, reimagines foundational staples like poplin shirts and relaxed chinos. Much of the brand’s debut collection draws inspiration from vintage items found within Hiraoka’s personal wardrobe, executed by skilled Japanese garment makers. "We adjust them in a way that feels right for today’s lifestyle," notes Hiraoka, pointing to pieces like a dark-khaki fatigue jacket crafted from heavyweight Japanese denim given a gentle wash for a lived-in finish.
3. Suave eyewear: Paloceras, Finland
Founded in 2022 by Mika Matikainen and Alexis Perron-Corriveau, Paloceras produces vibrant, colourful eyewear designed in Helsinki and manufactured across Finland and Shenzhen. Operating at the intersection of various disciplines, Matikainen observes that glasses sit somewhere between a fashion accessory, an industrial product, and a medical device. The brand achieves its distinct aesthetic through layered acetate construction, where colours subtly interact and shift—turning green into a champagne hue or transitioning pink into yellow.
4. The instant classic: Hermès, France
French luxury house Hermès has introduced a striking new leather addition to its accessories lineup: the Clou de Forge piece. First revealed during the autumn/winter womenswear show in Paris, the design offers a discreet nod to the brand’s 19th-century origins crafting high-end equestrian harnesses and saddles. Fabricated from structured calf leather, the front-flap design is accentuated by distinctive metal clasps directly referencing the horseshoe-shaped Clou de Forge bangle. Nadège Vanhée, the brand’s director of womenswear, has reinterpreted this metal detailing as functional hardware, lending an extra edge to a sleek yet robust accessory.
5. The creative director: Sage Toda-Nation, YMC, UK
As London-based label YMC marks the 30th anniversary of its founding collection, creative director Sage Toda-Nation reflects on the brand’s trajectory. Having joined the label in 2024 following the passing of co-founder Fraser Moss, Toda-Nation has worked alongside surviving co-founder Jimmy Collins to preserve the brand’s core spirit through a transitional period. Discussing his creative process, Toda-Nation explains that he builds mood boards and references early YMC designs, citing musicians such as Arthur Russell and the band Suicide as key muses for the current season. Reflecting on the evolution of the brand over three decades, he notes the shift from the ultra-slim, party-centric London aesthetics of the founders’ youth toward a broader global footprint and a modernized customer base.
6. The shirtmaker: Charvet, France
The return to autumn routines and formal office wear finds an ideal match in Charvet, France’s oldest shirtmaker, which recently secured the backing of Chanel following its acquisition in July. During a visit to the brand’s historic Paris boutique on Place Vendôme, sibling co-directors Jean-Claude and Anne-Marie Colban showcase a world of crisp whites and pastel-hued shirts. Emphasizing tactile appreciation, Anne-Marie notes the importance of touching fabrics and assessing colours against the face. While welcoming the return of formal workwear complete with ties, Jean-Claude maintains that a classic button-up remains versatile enough for any occasion, pairing just as easily with denim as with a tailored suit.
7. The shop refresh: Casey/Casey, France
Parisian label Casey/Casey has reinvented its 7th-arrondissement flagship boutique in collaboration with local designer Simon Chaouat. Explaining the motivation behind the physical overhaul, founder Gareth Casey simply wanted a change. Whitewashed floors and raw-plaster walls now provide a neutral backdrop for furniture and objects gathered over time. The minimalist aesthetic mirrors the label’s garments, which undergo hand-washing, dyeing, and finishing processes. "Nothing too polished, nothing too finished," Casey remarks of the design ethos.
8. The alpine touch: Maison Douillet, France
Drawing direct inspiration from the French Alps despite its headquarters in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, Maison Douillet was established in 2021 by Isère-born brothers Clément and Germain Douillet. The label specializes in limited runs of unisex ready-to-wear garments fabricated from high-density natural fibres including hemp, linen, and wool. Emphasizing localized production, the brothers collaborate with suppliers across France, Austria, and Italy. The resulting collection features loosely cut jackets with utilitarian pockets and checkered cotton-and-linen gilets with rounded collars that evoke crisp mountain walks while remaining equally suited for an afternoon on a Parisian terrace.
9. The retail hub: Friend Friend, Thailand
Located in the former car park of Bangkok’s Emporium shopping mall, Friend Friend opened in the summer of 2025 under the guidance of founders Suchada Peanpiriya, Worapun Sinakhom, and Tanchanok Thitisaksakul, who met while working for the mall’s parent organization, The Mall Group. Functioning as a hybrid space, Friend Friend offers retail shopping, dining, and workshops ranging from gardening to pasta-making. Its curated product selection includes ceramic bowls from Aoon Pottery in Bangkok’s old Chinatown, handmade hairbrushes by British manufacturer Kent, and contemporary tableware from Japanese brand Sekisaka.
10. The new minimalism: Ain Amor, Germany
Ain Amor operates under the creative direction of Sophia Lewis, who honed her craft working directly under Jil Sander. Lewis designs minimalist staples for both men and women, featuring versatile garments like reversible trench coats and shearling jackets equipped with detachable lapels and hoods. "We invite the consumer to make some design decisions," Lewis explains. Produced in Romania—an increasingly vital European luxury manufacturing hub—the collections utilize high-end European and Japanese textiles, such as cashmere-wool blends and organic cotton, cut into relaxed, unisex silhouettes meant to be shared and worn in versatile ways.
11. Elevated outerwear: Ten C & Comoli, Japan
Demonstrating that understated garments often require the most meticulous attention to detail, Italian outerwear specialist Ten C and Japanese label Comoli have joined forces for a collaborative collection. According to creative lead Federico Melchioli, every proportion and texture must be exact when a garment speaks so softly. The collection features field jackets cut from Ten C’s signature Original Japanese Jersey (OJJ)—a material that softens in humid conditions and firms up in dry air—tailored by Comoli for a more refined fit. The wider nine-piece collection, presented entirely in black, also includes reversible suits pairing Comoli’s cotton flannel with Ten C’s OJJ and crinkle nylon.
12. Essential accessories: Éternel Parisien, France
Drawing inspiration from the French capital, accessories label Éternel Parisien produces fine leather goods and silk scarves under the direction of founder and former Balmain and Jean-Paul Gaultier alumnus Gilles Rosier. Capturing a sophisticated yet effortless Parisian attitude, the brand offers pieces such as the dark-green leather Beauvau tote bag, named after the public square in the 8th arrondissement. Another standout is the Montebello wine-bottle holder, referencing the Left Bank quay where locals enjoy sunny afternoon apéritifs. Rosier notes that his work celebrates the French art of living while playfully leaning into the stereotypical snobbery of the Parisian lifestyle.
13. The high-street find: Uniqlo, Japan
As Uniqlo maintains its dominant position in the global retail sector alongside giants like H&M Group and Inditex, the Japanese brand continues to prioritize product quality. This commitment is evident in its latest padded blouson. Offered in autumnal tones, the boxy, versatile basic serves as an ideal transitional garment, while a subtle checked lining underscores the brand’s renowned attention to detail.
14. The natural designer: Jiyong Kim, South Korea
Seoul-based designer Jiyong Kim eschews chemical treatments in favour of natural elements—harnessing the sun, wind, and rain—to impart a unique patina onto his garments. Having studied in Tokyo and London before working at Louis Vuitton and Lemaire in Paris, Kim launched his eponymous label in 2021, subsequently earning recognition as a 2024 LVMH Prize semi-finalist and a guest designer at Pitti Immagine Uomo. For the current season, he introduces light-responsive fabrics, embracing nature’s unpredictability rather than attempting to control every manufacturing outcome.
15. The tastemaker: Yuki Matsuda, Japan/USA
Japanese-born designer Yuki Matsuda, founder of the California-based studio Meg Company established in 1989, oversees four distinct brands—Monitaly, Yuketen, Chamula, and Epperson Mountaineering—that bridge American workwear traditions with Japanese craftsmanship. Matsuda explains that his labels serve specific functions: Monitaly provides apparel tailored to his personal wardrobe needs, Yuketen focuses on elevated footwear, Chamula celebrates Mexican folk art and craft, and Epperson Mountaineering delivers classic outdoor gear. Reflecting on his generation’s fascination with American post-war culture, Matsuda highlights the concept of wayo setchu—the seamless blending of Japanese and Western elements—which has shaped his lifelong exploration of vintage denim and archival textiles.
16. For the outdoor: Nappa Dori, India
New Delhi-based brand Nappa Dori merges accessible utility with traditional hiking aesthetics through its Arc Pack 01 bag. Constructed from hardy nylon and equipped with a secure mesh zipper pocket, the piece exemplifies the brand’s interpretation of "Indian minimalism." While initially conceived for country trail walks, the compact sling bag transitions effortlessly into urban environments, offering streamlined storage for daily essentials without the bulk of traditional outdoor packs.
17. Cyclists’ choice: Ketta, Japan
Originating in Gifu—where the local Tokai dialect translates the word to "bicycle"—Japanese brand Ketta delivers smart commuting solutions tailored for cyclists. The brand’s lineup includes suit trousers engineered with discreet fasteners to prevent trouser cuffs from catching in bicycle gears, alongside weather-resistant hooded jackets that balance technical functionality with boardroom-appropriate formality.
18. The fit-first label: Recto, South Korea
Launched by designer Ji Yeon Jung in 2015, Recto initially focused on refined, everyday womenswear utilizing unisex tailoring and utilitarian outerwear before expanding into a dedicated menswear line in 2021. Known for its tuck-pleat trousers, boxy shirts, and loose-fit blazers, the brand emphasizes meticulous fit and fabric selection as it continues its expansion into regional markets across China and Japan.
19. The mountain coat: Weekend Max Mara & Robert Rabensteiner, Italy
Stylist and former L’Uomo Vogue editor-at-large Robert Rabensteiner has partnered with Italian label Weekend Max Mara for an autumnal collection titled Into the Forest. Drawing inspiration from woodland excursions while maintaining urban versatility for weekend getaways, the collection features clean, classical silhouettes executed in bold colours alongside opulent textiles such as silk and wool.
20. A last look: Alaïa, France
Marking the conclusion of Pieter Mulier’s five-year tenure at Alaïa—a period defined by surging profits and significant retail expansion—the designer’s final collection debuted at the Fondation Cartier in Paris. As the first creative director to lead the French luxury house following the passing of founder Azzedine Alaïa, Mulier utilized an architectural approach characterized by fluid draping and cascading fabrics. With this chapter closed, Mulier prepares to assume his new role as creative director of Versace, with his debut runway show scheduled for February.
21. New name to know: Amayi, UK
Operating from her London showroom, Zimbabwe-born designer Joanna Masiyiwa welcomes clients seeking colourful womenswear, ranging from patterned silk dresses to handcrafted beaded accessories. Since launching Amayi earlier this year, Masiyiwa has partnered with specialized ateliers across Poland and India to produce limited-edition collections. Emphasizing exclusivity, she notes the unique appeal of knowing that a garment is owned by only a select few.
22. The heritage hero: Church’s, UK
For navigating inclement autumn weather, Northamptonshire-based heritage shoemaker Church’s—owned by Prada—offers the leather Shefford boot. Featuring a durable rubber sole, contrast stitching, padded tongue, and Alpine-inspired lace hook eyelets, the high-top silhouette is built to withstand colder conditions, with the forest-green iteration standing out as a seasonal favourite.
23. The comfort shoe: Sanders, UK
English legacy footwear brand Sanders, established in 1873, draws inspiration from the Swedish province of Jämtland and its skiing and Sami heritage to create its latest curling boots. Crafted from premium water-resistant suede with shearling linings and sturdy crepe soles, these boots offer robust protection against winter weather.
24. The menswear switch-up: Toteme, Sweden
Stockholm-based label Toteme has expanded its luxury womenswear offerings into a dedicated menswear collection, overseen by co-founder Karl Lindman 12 years after launching the brand with Elin Kling. Capitalizing on high-quality fabrications and authentic details tailored for a sophisticated demographic, the initial menswear drop includes a cream shearling-lined parka inspired by Swedish army jackets and a cashmere scarf-collar cardigan, reflecting a distinctly Scandinavian palette and pragmatic sensibility.
25. The folk hero: Samuel Snider, USA
Dividing his time between New York and Maine, designer Samuel Snider draws inspiration from the antique shops and folk craft of New England to inform his newly relaunched brand. Produced in New York’s Garment District, Snider’s collections pair timeless silhouettes with enduring materials including Irish tweed, Italian cotton, hemp yarn, and British waxed cotton, bridging a connection between historical craftsmanship and future design.
