PARIS — For two decades, Freitag’s installation of 19 decommissioned freight containers stacked into a rust-streaked tower in Zurich’s former industrial district has stood as a towering retail landmark. This architectural marvel, which recently celebrated its 20th anniversary in September, has become far more than a simple shopping destination. The Swiss bag-maker is using this major milestone to signal its next strategic step forward with the launch of the Reference line, a range of four distinct bags engineered to push its signature upcycling upscale through a more refined, minimalist design language.
The brand, originally founded in 1993 by visionary brothers Markus and Daniel Freitag, proudly counts itself among the original sustainable labels of the modern fashion era. Long before "sustainability" became a ubiquitous buzzword on corporate agendas and consumer radar screens, the duo pioneered a circular materials philosophy by repurposing discarded truck tarpaulins into durable, weather-resistant, one-of-a-kind bags. Now, as sustainability faces complex commercial challenges in a shifting consumer marketplace, Freitag’s new Reference line—launching Thursday—expands directly upon that foundational philosophy, proving that eco-conscious creation and high-end design can coexist seamlessly.
Bridging Upcycling and Elegance
"We prove that upcycling and elegance are not a contradiction," said Freitag chief executive officer Janine Weiz-Bühler. "Used truck tarpaulins are every bit the equal of classic luxury materials when worked with the dedication and refined craftsmanship Freitag built over the past three decades."
The brand’s iconic Zurich flagship remains the physical embodiment of its retail and architectural philosophy. Originally envisioned as a temporary installation when it opened in 2006, the container tower eventually secured permanent structural approval in 2014. The site’s evolution continued with the opening of an adjoining Repair Kiosk in 2025, transforming the location from a conventional retail shop into a comprehensive hub for repair and circular services.
"To this day it remains not only a bold architectural statement, but a tangible embodiment of our purpose: ‘we think and act in cycles,’" said Markus Freitag.
Today, Freitag operates a global network of 30 retail stores situated primarily across Europe and Asia, supplemented by approximately 200 retail partners and a robust e-commerce platform. Yet, the company’s retail strategy has long since transcended the simple transaction of selling merchandise. Around the world, Freitag stores function as community-driven hubs dedicated to repair, rental, resale, and clothing-swapping events, fostering a deeply engaged consumer base.
The Economics of Circularity and Profit for Purpose
Operating a truly circular business model, however, comes with formidable economic hurdles. Upcycling the company’s core raw material is an exceptionally labor-intensive endeavor, costing roughly three times more than purchasing virgin materials. Markus Freitag explains that this financial premium exists because discarded tarps must be meticulously sourced from logistics companies across Europe, subjected to rigorous quality-testing, carefully disassembled by hand, and thoroughly washed before production can even begin.
Rather than viewing these steps as an operational burden, Freitag leverages this labor-intensive process as a vital commercial differentiator. By transforming waste into goods with individual character and unique patinas, the brand avoids the pitfalls of standardized mass production.
"We call the approach ‘profit for purpose,’" Markus Freitag noted. "Economic health is the foundation to amplify our positive impact, and financial success is not the ultimate goal, but the engine that gives us the independence to go for bold innovations."
In line with this philosophy, the company is actively pursuing value growth without relying on the relentless expansion of raw production volumes.
"Pure volume-driven growth definitely clashes with planetary limits," Markus Freitag said. For the brand, he emphasized, growth means "elevating our omnichannel distribution and expanding our global community to gain visibility for a good purpose, rather than just pushing more product."
At the same time, the leadership team remains transparent about the realities of sustainable manufacturing. "At the same time, we have to be honest — operating in an ecologically responsible way does put pressure on margins," he added. "However, that individual character [of each bag] creates a very strong personal connection with our customers, transforming the major operational effort into our greatest brand strength."
Redefining Minimalist Design With the Reference Line
The introduction of the Reference line represents a strategic evolution in building that long-term brand loyalty and value growth. Each bag in the collection is crafted from hand-selected, monochrome truck tarps and manufactured in small, controlled series through trusted European production partners.
The range is specifically designed to resonate with new consumers who may not traditionally gravitate toward the colorful, utilitarian aesthetic that has historically defined Freitag’s catalog.
"From a commercial standpoint, the relaunch of Reference represents a strategic expansion of our lineup into an even more premium, more minimalist segment," Weiz-Bühler explained. "The elevated, understated design language allows us to attract entirely new target audiences who value quiet quality and versatility in their daily lives."
Company executives are careful to clarify that the collection is not a rebrand or a pivot in market positioning. Instead, it serves as a natural extension of the brand’s expansive design capabilities.
"This isn’t a shift in our market positioning or a rebrand — rather, it expands our versatility," Weiz-Bühler said. "We want to demonstrate that sustainable design solutions belong in every segment."
The timeless sustainability triad of reducing, reusing, and recycling is embedded directly into the physical architecture of every Reference product. Each bag is shipped with a detachable repair kit made from the exact same tarp material, complete with original lining and sewing thread, empowering owners to perform their own maintenance years down the line if wear and tear occurs.
"While we aim for cost-neutrality with these services, the overall ecosystem value — keeping products in circulation and building trust — makes them a solid long-term investment," Markus Freitag added. "Ultimately, it helps us build even deeper customer relationships and brand loyalty that money can’t buy in standard retail."
Moving Beyond Upcycling Toward True Circularity
Looking beyond upcycling, Freitag’s ultimate corporate ambition is to achieve genuine material circularity. To realize this goal, the company is actively collaborating with industry partners to develop a specialized "circular tarp" designed to be fully recyclable at the end of its functional life cycle. Initial prototypes are currently undergoing real-world road testing.
Simultaneously, the brand is experimenting with innovative mono-material products. Its aptly named "Mono" backpack is engineered entirely from a single recyclable material, allowing the entire structure to be easily shredded and processed back into polyamide-nylon granules when it can no longer be used.
Despite these strides, leadership readily acknowledges that achieving true circularity remains an uphill structural battle within the broader fashion and accessories industry. Services like rental and repair demand significant labor and financial investment, while scalable recycling infrastructure is still in its infancy, compounded by a persistent consumer awareness gap.
"Some brands still treat sustainability as an afterthought or a pure marketing tool. When a brand just wraps a sustainability story around its existing business model, it inevitably hits a wall because the underlying engine remains optimized for volume, rapid obsolescence and margin maximization," Weiz-Bühler observed.
"True sustainability cannot simply be bolted on, rather it must be the starting point for every product design and operational decision. Of course, all of this is easier said than done… [but] we hope Freitag can serve as an inspiration for a more future-proof way of producing and consuming," she added.
As extreme weather events become an increasingly urgent global talking point—underscored by Europe recording its hottest summer in history—Freitag believes its foundational ethos has never felt more timely.
"This makes our model even more relevant: as the climate challenges are getting more pressing and greenwashing faces well-deserved scrutiny, people are seeking out sustainability pioneers with authentic substance and experience," Weiz-Bühler concluded.
